Proteasomes are large protein complexes inside all eukaryotes and archaea, as well as in some bacteria. In eukaryotes, proteasomes are located in the nucleus and the cytoplasm of cells. They are the machinery in the cells that degrade and recycle unneeded or damaged proteins into their component amino acids through proteolysis, a chemical reaction which breaks peptide bonds. In this manner, proteasomes help cells regulate the concentration of particular proteins and eliminate proteins which are oxidized, misfolded or have otherwise been damaged. Enzymes that carry out these reactions are called proteases.
It is well known in the cosmetic field that the levels of proteasome activity in skin decline during the aging process, whether chronological aging or accelerated aging due to extrinsic factors such as UV radiation, smoking or pollution. In part, the reduction in proteasome activity results in the accumulation of oxidized and other damaged proteins within the skin cells, and produces an undesirable effect on the appearance of the skin, in particular a “dull” or “uneven” appearance. Thus, it is desirable to increase the levels of proteasome in aged skin for an anti-aging, detoxifying and/or radiance enhancing effect on such skin. Increasingly, however, consumers desire such effects to be achieved through products which have a perceived “natural” origin and there is a continuing need to formulate cosmetic products with ingredients based on plants and the like.
Marine plants, such as algae, have developed mechanisms and chemistries to protect and defend against the extreme environmental conditions which may be found in the ocean, such as, for example, desiccation (high salt), solar radiation and high pressure, and have adapted to become capable of surviving in diverse marine environments. Many algae have historically been and continue to be utilized for health and beauty as part of medicinal remedies, daily diets or dietary supplements, or cosmetics.
It has been discovered that extracts of Gracilaria tikvahiae, stimulate the proteasome activity of skin cells when applied to the skin. It has been further discovered that ferments of algae of the genus, Gracilaria, particularly ferments of the species, Gracilaria tikvahiae, stimulate the proteasome activity of skin cells when applied topically. Thus, through the application of topical cosmetic, pharmaceutical, or personal care compositions comprising the ferments and/or extracts of the present invention, it is possible to increase proteasome activity in chronologically or extrinsically aged skin and/or proactively maintain proteasome activity in skin.
Thus, the present invention relates to marine extracts and fermentations of the genus Gracilaria, such as, for example, the species, Gracilaria tikvahiae, for use in cosmetic compositions to improve the condition of the skin and/or to provide anti-aging effects.
The present invention further relates to the topical use of the described marine extracts and fermentations to stimulate proteasome activity in skin cells.
The present invention also relates to cosmetic compositions, such as gels, lotions or creams, comprising safe and effective amounts of the marine extracts and/or fermentations of the present invention, alone or in combination with other skin care actives having beneficial anti-aging or other skin enhancing effects.
These and other features and advantages of the present invention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure.